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Phuket Travel Guide, Thailand

Wine, Dine and Dance

Are you wondering what to do on Phuket at night? First-rate restaurants serve everything from a variety of regional Thai cuisine to French, Italian, Japanese, American, Chinese and Korean food. What's more, many of these establishments have privileged locations with views of the Andaman Sea and the lush coconut groves and forested hills back of the beaches. You can pay 7,000 baht (US$280) and more for a single bottle of wine, in a few of these places, or four people can share several tasty dishes and a few large bottles of beer in a garden Isarn Thai restaurant for a total of 500 baht (US$20) or less. Some places offer traditional Thai music and dance with your meal. Then of course there are the bars -- everything from go-go bars to sports pubs to cabarets to discos to Thai-style nightclubs with singers and stage shows. One place in Phuket Town has ballroom dancing.

Phuket Nightlife

Now offers more and more in the way of both variety and quality. It wasn't so many years ago that there were only a few bars in Patong, generally catering to single males, and a few "coffee shops", or Thai-style nightclubs, in Phuket Town and around the island. Times have changed. Read on for some recommendations.

Fun by the Andaman Sea. The Club Andaman lies not too far north of Patong's Soi Bang-La. Check out the Blue Diamond Show band at the CLUB ANDAMAN FUN PUB. A recent arrival from the Philippines, the group, led by two lovely ladies, combines the flow of New Age rock with the stabilizing backbeat of contemporary jazz. Fully air-conditioned with a spacious dance-floor and friendly service, the Fun Pub is a good spot for friends and lovers.

Insomniac's delight

The BLACK RHINO, together with a number of neighbouring beer bars off Soi Sunset, Patong Beach, provides a focus for all those ladies and gentlemen who believe that hangovers are really caused by sleep, and who, according to that wisdom, do everything they can to avoid hangovers. A great place to meet like-minded folk, if you're an inveterate nightowl and totally unimpressed at premonitions of the morning after (what's left of the morning, that is).

Classical Entertainment

On Kata Beach, one nightlife alternative to beer bars and go-go clubs is the troupe of traditional Thai dancers and musicians that perform from about 8pm at the SALA THAI, a fine Thai restaurant at Marina Cottage. On Karon, you can find this sort of entertainment at the OLD SIAM, an establishment in the Thavorn Palm Beach Resort that specializes in northern and Royal Thai cuisine. Reports have it that the ROYAL PARK TRAVELODGE, on Bang Tao Beach, and the KAMALA BAY TERRACE, Kamala Bay, alternate evenings of classical Thai dancing and cabarets as their dinner entertainment. Try the OLD TIME CORNER or ORCA, both in Phuket Town, for modern music.

Cultural Evenings For Everyone

The Chao Phraya River Club, Phuket chapter, has been holding monthly "Literary Society and Frog-Racing Association" get-togethers at the BOATHOUSE, Kata Beach. With each passing month, bigger and more enthusiastic crowds have been turning out to hear published writers read from their work to an assembly of people in search of a good reason to swill Saturday night happy hour drinks in pleasant company in superb surroundings. Members of the audience are welcome to read after the scheduled writers have performed. The occasion is in no way the exclusive purview of the nobs -- anyone can enjoy the relaxed, convivial atmosphere. And the Boathouse is one of the best places on the island to have dinner afterwards.

More Cultural Pursuits

Make an early night of it at the GOOD EARTH SECOND-HAND BOOKS, WINE BAR AND TEA ROOM, in Kata Centre. During the May-October summer season, the hours are "11am-ish" till 7pm, Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday. After 1 November, it's open till 8pm every night but Sunday. Julie, the proprietor, has a good range of teas, wines, beer and snacks, not to mention lots of bookish chat and all the local gossip besides. Julie displays local art and occasionally hosts book-signings by local writers. Even if you don't have to get to bed early, you can still drop by for a glass of Chablis to set up the palate for one of the several fine restaurants in the area.

High Times

Scene one: Night falls over the Andaman Sea. You're enjoying a post-prandial drink aboard the sailing yacht SUWAN MACHA, anchored at the base of soaring limestone cliffs in Phang Nga Bay. You look way up at the jungle fringe silhouetted against a full moon. Something suddenly moves across the silver orb -- a bird, a big fruit bat, a gibbon swinging through the trees?

Scene two: Night falls over the Andaman Sea. You're having a few drinks with friends in an outdoor bar on Patong Beach. An eerie cry descends from somewhere high above. You look up to see something fleet across the huge silver orb of the full moon. It's actually your buddy Fred, who has just been launched from the CATAPULT BUNGEE outside the Expat Hotel.

Quiet Seaside Evenings

What with the decor, the view of the beach, and excellent music from Tommy Doyle, it's hard to imagine a more pleasant spot for a drink and some relaxed conversation than the piano bar at BAAN RIM PA, on Patong Beach. Unless it's DA MAURIZIO, the sister bar and restaurant right next door, where you get to sit by the surf in similarly splendid surroundings. Or at OTOWA, the Japanese sister. In any of these cases, you may well decide to stay for dinner -- great Thai food at Baan Rim Pa; superb Italian at da Maurizio; the very best Japanese at Otowa.

Rock 'n' Roll Pubs

Phuket has some great music pubs, these days. Those with a bit of stamina could try a pub crawl that included the ever-popular TIMBER HUT, which has a great layout and great music, the CANDY PUB, and the new PRC (PHUKET RIDERS' CLUB). And that's just in Phuket Town.

The PRC in Saphan Hin, is an intimate pub attracting a lot of the young locals. From 18:00-21:30 the pub offers live folk music and from 22:30-02:00 a band plays soft rock and heavy metal, and the decibels are high! Lovers of both country music and rock 'n' roll can catch the Pure Band at Candy Pub, in Phuket Town. Lead singer Miss Nai is an attraction all in her own right, and the pub offers a choice of Thai, Chinese and European dishes. Live satellite TV brings you MTV and live sports, and Candy Pub is open from 6pm till 2am. The Timber Hut, just outside Phuket Town, offers live rock 'n' roll and blues. The Thai food is okay, if you just want something to go with your drinks, but don't go for dinner. Try the deep-fried squid. This place is hugely popular and is generally packed out with a mix of local Thai people, foreign residents and tourists. It's open from early evening till the wee hours. You can book a table.

The SAFARI PUB, Phuket's biggest dance spot, offers three live bands every night from 8pm. The kitchen is open till 2am; you can dance till 3am. Phuket's most famous singer, Khun Boonkurt, ("Kurt"), formerly of Timber Hut and Eagle Pub fame, performs with the Bangket Band, singing songs from the '70s and '80s. A midnight show on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays stars several "dudes" (sort of) from Simon Cabaret. The SAFARI PUB, nestled in a jungle setting just 10 minutes south of Patong, makes for a fun night out.

Lose Yourself

In some way poorly understood outside the culture, Thais equate noise with good times. Enjoyment can be directly measured in decibels, the more the better. One theory has it that the DJs all went deaf long ago; as they did, the volume crept up to where the entire population is now also going deaf, and no one realizes how awe-inspiring sound levels have become. So when you enter a local disco be prepared to lose yourself, and maybe some of your hearing, in the music.

Wear Your Earplugs

MARINA DISCO, at the Merlin Hotel in Phuket Town, is one of the most popular dance spots on the island, these days. THE MONSTER CAVE, at the Thavorn Hotel, and LASER DISCO, at the Thavorn Grand Plaza are two other favourites. In Patong, the TITANIC, the BANANA, and the TIN MINE 2 are the discos of choice. If your Terpsichorean tastes run to less trendy ways of struttin' your stuff, then THE WAVE, in the Pearl Hotel, is the place to go for ballroom dancing. Tangos, waltzes, fox-trots and suchlike are as modern as it gets at The Wave.

Drinkers with a Running Problem

The Hash House Harriers congregate at the EXPAT HOTEL every Saturday afternoon, and the drinkers with a running problem, both guys and girls, often like to party at the Expat late Saturday afternoons. The good times often roll into the evening with lots of "down-downs".

Hark, All Ye Hustlers

Every Tuesday at 8pm, JIMMY'S LIGHTHOUSE, on Ao Chalong, hosts a pool tournament. Participants ante up 100 baht apiece and stand to win a case of 24 beers. The tournament is open to all, hustlers and duffers, ladies and gents. This favourite hangout among the yachting crowd makes a fine spot to stop for a meal or a drink at any time. Jimmy's has great food, a fine ambiance, and a privileged view of the yacht harbour and old pier. Other venues for pool tournaments open to all: the RED ROSE, Kata Centre (Friday) and the ANCHOR BAR, Kata Centre (Wednesdays) 100 baht ante and 24 beer first prize.

Wine Weekends

The BOATHOUSE, on Kata Beach, is offering residents and visitors alike a perfect weekend for those who love tasting wine, Thai cooking, and relaxing in the herbal spa near the ocean. The package includes two nights accommodation, return airport transfer by private limousine, American breakfast, Thai set dinner on Friday night, Thai cooking course on Saturday morning for one person with Chef Tummanoon, golf tournament with prizes, gala dinner with exceptional wine tasting on Saturday night, and one session in the herbal spa with massage of your choice. Rates are: Twin/double room - 14,900 Baht (US$590), Single - 9,400 Baht (US$370), Suite - 18,100 (US$724). Package expires 31st October, 1996.

Health Breaks

The BOATHOUSE would also like you to try the ancient healing arts of Asia to rejuvenate your mind and body in the herbal spa garden. This includes three night accommodation, return airport transfers by private limousine, daily Boathouse breakfast on the terrace, three massage sessions, including reflexology along with herbal steam treatments, a Thai herbal oil gift basket, and one set dinner of healthy Thai cuisine. Rate are: Twin/double - 12,875 (US$515), Single - 8,900 Baht (US$356), Suite - 17,675 Baht (US$707). Package expires 31st October, 1996.

Night Sports

Right. It's not what you think. If you're tired of drinking, dancing and eating, and the idea of a movie is just too boring, Phuket offers other diversions. If you're in Patong, for example, and you're in the mood to get really high, you can try the CATAPULT BUNGEE, just outside the Expat Hotel. You get a nice view of Phuket's busiest beach at night. Or why not try a NIGHT DIVE? Any number of local dive shops organize these. The Dive Café, in Kata Centre, sometimes offers a package -- a set Thai dinner and a night dive off the beach. Some of the gamefishing boats do NIGHTFISHING FOR SHARKS. PARTY CRUISES aboard the Jolly Roger, a junk-rigged sailing vessel, are another option. The full moon makes a good an occasion as any. HERBAL SAUNAS and TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE provide another change of pace -- either or both make an ideal therapy before or after a night on the town.

Cabarets

Transvestite reviews, for whatever reasons, attract large audiences of both Thais and foreigner visitors. The fantastic costumes are no doubt one factor explaining their popularity. Others? The stage set at Patong's SIMON CABARET, for example, is one of the most elaborate in Thailand and the light show is spectacular.

A Place for Everything, and Everything in Its Place

Go-go bars aren't everyone's cup of tea. They tend to rank low on the Politically Correct scale of good things, these days. But lots of people swear by them. Among the best on Phuket are Patong's FIREHOUSE, EXTASY and ROCK HARD A GO GO. Patong Beach has gained a happy sort of notoriety for its rock-hard nightlife, and no one would seriously suggest that it should reform itself at this point. It's enjoying enormous success with visitors, so it must be doing something right. Other, less "developed" beaches such as Kata and Karon, however, offer different sorts of ambiance, and many local business people and residents want to keep it that way. The Kata-Karon Tourism Management Committee, for example -- comprising representatives of the various sectors of the community -- would prefer to restrict lurid nightlife to other areas of the island.

Surin Beach Starts toSwing?

Surin Beach is smaller and less well-known than Patong or Kata-Karon, but you'll find the elements of a thriving night life. DIVER'S RESTAURANT AND BAR, fairly recently moved from Kamala Bay to south Surin Beach, was taken by the sea, a few months ago. With the passing of the southwest monsoons season in October, Diver plans to set up on the beach once more. Diver's hospitality and love of good times is sure to make the new joint just as popular as the old one was. Bepy, meanwhile, has opened a TOTO on Surin Beach. The original TOTO, in Bangkok, is famous for its food. An efficient management system, says Bepy, has been allowing him to spend most of his time on Phuket, and it made sense to start another operation here. Enjoy great food, exceptional wines and a beautiful tropical garden. The cocktail lounge and café up front are really pleasant. According to one local who is already a regular, "This is where you see people who don't want to be seen." Figure that one out.

Not So Big Joe

He did it! A bet that started as a joke turned serious, when all sorts of punters wanted in on the proposition that Big Joe of NED KELLY'S BAR, Soi Bangla, Patong Beach couldn't get his weight from 350 to less than 300 pounds by 1 January. Big John provided training and moral support, and had Joe ready for the New Year's Day weigh-in. More than ready -- the newly svelte Big Joe made it down to 270 pounds. Anyone want to bet what it'll be next New Year's?

Folk Music

Try the PRC PUB from 6.00-9.30pm for folk music, or the little upstairs bar at JE T'AIME (see listing in our Restaurant Guide) from 8pm till midnight for both Thai and English songs.

Cool Jazz

Hit the BOATHOUSE INN, Kata Beach, for jazz every Saturday night from 8pm. The excellent house duo -- Rudolfo Navio on bass guitar and Jack Cruz on piano -- are joined by Emile Jerome on saxophone and Brian on percussion. The Boathouse makes a great seaside setting for a musical evening. Drop around for the music and a drink or, better still, book a table and treat yourself to a superb meal accompanied by wines from the finest wine cellar in the south of Thailand. Enjoy the house duo any night of the week.

Tea and Scones

The ATRIUM LOUNGE, in the new Novotel in Phuket Town, has stopped Phuket's first British-style "high tea". This is a tragedy, seeing that the Novotel's pastry chef is a genius. Still, the Atrium Lounge is well worth a visit. The ambiance is pleasant and, from 7pm, the "He and She Duo", a fabulous Filipino musical duo, performs.

The Cure

An increasing number and variety of herbal saunas are making their appearance on the island. CHALONG HERBAL SAUNA and NERNTONG RESORT, on Kalim Beach, now joins older establishments such as the HIDEAWAY in Patong. According to the owner of Chalong Herbal Sauna, the original herbal sauna on Phuket was the temple in Nai Harn. Whether the treatment was originally conceived as a hangover cure or not, it can be recommended as such. Some of the saunas are using prai, the same herb that the monks have always used in the Nai Harn temple. Other exotic treatments include a Thai honey-wrap massage, as administered at the very upmarket BANYAN TREE SPA. The Le Meridien Hotel offers arometherapy massage and reflexology. The BOATHOUSE INN, on Kata Beach, has also opened a posh spa, with custom herbal steam therapies, a choice of massage and lots more - all of it in unsurpassed surroundings. (All you health fanatics will be pleased to note the proximity of the Boathouse's excellent restaurant and wine cellar, the island's best.)

More Hangover Cures

Here's one way to erase the after-effects of a Saturday night on the town -- try joining the afternoon gang on Kamala Beach, where a crowd of mostly expat residents and others gather to play volleyball and Frisbee on Sunday afternoons. DIVER'S BAR will soon be once again offering cold beer for those threatened with dehydration or incipient DTs. This popular beach bar was swept away by a rogue bit of surf, a while back, but Diver says he's going to start up a new establishment in October of 1996.

Cool It

Try GELATI NATURA, on Patong Beach, for luscious ice cream made on the premises only from natural products. Some of the flavours on offer, including tamarind, are original to Gelati Natura.

Just a Snack

UNCLE NAN'S Italian restaurant, at the Cape Panwa Hotel, is highly recommended both for the ambiance and for the quality of the tucker. Try the Salmon à la Davidoff, for example. This salmon mousse rolled in fine smoked salmon and served with a delicate cream sauce is designed to inspire even the most jaded palate.

Sima's Indian Vegetarian Food and Gifts.

Sima's, at the Karon Plaza corner, closed for the summer season, is reopening on 1 November 1996. Sima's first opened just last year to coincide with the start of Phuket's famous Vegetarian Festival, last October. This is real veggie food, with no eggs or dairy products. Nevertheless, it's delicious. And it's BYOB, for those who need a bit of beer or wine to wash down the curries. Sima and her husband Garum are already well known as the proprietors of Euro Fashion, a quality tailor shop in Kata Centre.



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