Are you wondering what to do on Phuket at
night? First-rate restaurants serve everything from a variety of regional Thai
cuisine to French, Italian, Japanese, American, Chinese and Korean food. What's
more, many of these establishments have privileged locations with views of the
Andaman Sea and the lush coconut groves and forested hills back of the beaches.
You can pay 7,000 baht (US$280) and more for a single bottle of wine, in a few
of these places, or four people can share several tasty dishes and a few large
bottles of beer in a garden Isarn Thai restaurant for a total of 500 baht (US$20)
or less. Some places offer traditional Thai music and dance with your meal. Then
of course there are the bars -- everything from go-go bars to sports pubs to cabarets
to discos to Thai-style nightclubs with singers and stage shows. One place in
Phuket Town has ballroom dancing. Phuket NightlifeNow offers more
and more in the way of both variety and quality. It wasn't so many years ago that
there were only a few bars in Patong, generally catering to single males, and
a few "coffee shops", or Thai-style nightclubs, in Phuket Town and around
the island. Times have changed. Read on for some recommendations. Fun by
the Andaman Sea. The Club Andaman lies not too far north of Patong's Soi Bang-La.
Check out the Blue Diamond Show band at the CLUB ANDAMAN FUN PUB. A recent arrival
from the Philippines, the group, led by two lovely ladies, combines the flow of
New Age rock with the stabilizing backbeat of contemporary jazz. Fully air-conditioned
with a spacious dance-floor and friendly service, the Fun Pub is a good spot for
friends and lovers. Insomniac's delightThe BLACK RHINO, together
with a number of neighbouring beer bars off Soi Sunset, Patong Beach, provides
a focus for all those ladies and gentlemen who believe that hangovers are really
caused by sleep, and who, according to that wisdom, do everything they can to
avoid hangovers. A great place to meet like-minded folk, if you're an inveterate
nightowl and totally unimpressed at premonitions of the morning after (what's
left of the morning, that is). Classical EntertainmentOn Kata
Beach, one nightlife alternative to beer bars and go-go clubs is the troupe of
traditional Thai dancers and musicians that perform from about 8pm at the SALA
THAI, a fine Thai restaurant at Marina Cottage. On Karon, you can find this sort
of entertainment at the OLD SIAM, an establishment in the Thavorn Palm Beach Resort
that specializes in northern and Royal Thai cuisine. Reports have it that the
ROYAL PARK TRAVELODGE, on Bang Tao Beach, and the KAMALA BAY TERRACE, Kamala Bay,
alternate evenings of classical Thai dancing and cabarets as their dinner entertainment.
Try the OLD TIME CORNER or ORCA, both in Phuket Town, for modern music. Cultural
Evenings For EveryoneThe Chao Phraya River Club, Phuket chapter, has been
holding monthly "Literary Society and Frog-Racing Association" get-togethers
at the BOATHOUSE, Kata Beach. With each passing month, bigger and more enthusiastic
crowds have been turning out to hear published writers read from their work to
an assembly of people in search of a good reason to swill Saturday night happy
hour drinks in pleasant company in superb surroundings. Members of the audience
are welcome to read after the scheduled writers have performed. The occasion is
in no way the exclusive purview of the nobs -- anyone can enjoy the relaxed, convivial
atmosphere. And the Boathouse is one of the best places on the island to have
dinner afterwards. More Cultural PursuitsMake an early night of
it at the GOOD EARTH SECOND-HAND BOOKS, WINE BAR AND TEA ROOM, in Kata Centre.
During the May-October summer season, the hours are "11am-ish" till
7pm, Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday. After 1 November, it's open till 8pm every
night but Sunday. Julie, the proprietor, has a good range of teas, wines, beer
and snacks, not to mention lots of bookish chat and all the local gossip besides.
Julie displays local art and occasionally hosts book-signings by local writers.
Even if you don't have to get to bed early, you can still drop by for a glass
of Chablis to set up the palate for one of the several fine restaurants in the
area. High TimesScene one: Night falls over the Andaman
Sea. You're enjoying a post-prandial drink aboard the sailing yacht SUWAN MACHA,
anchored at the base of soaring limestone cliffs in Phang Nga Bay. You look way
up at the jungle fringe silhouetted against a full moon. Something suddenly moves
across the silver orb -- a bird, a big fruit bat, a gibbon swinging through the
trees? Scene two: Night falls over the Andaman Sea. You're having
a few drinks with friends in an outdoor bar on Patong Beach. An eerie cry descends
from somewhere high above. You look up to see something fleet across the huge
silver orb of the full moon. It's actually your buddy Fred, who has just been
launched from the CATAPULT BUNGEE outside the Expat Hotel. Quiet Seaside
EveningsWhat with the decor, the view of the beach, and excellent music
from Tommy Doyle, it's hard to imagine a more pleasant spot for a drink and some
relaxed conversation than the piano bar at BAAN RIM PA, on Patong Beach. Unless
it's DA MAURIZIO, the sister bar and restaurant right next door, where you get
to sit by the surf in similarly splendid surroundings. Or at OTOWA, the Japanese
sister. In any of these cases, you may well decide to stay for dinner -- great
Thai food at Baan Rim Pa; superb Italian at da Maurizio; the very best Japanese
at Otowa. Rock 'n' Roll PubsPhuket has some great music pubs,
these days. Those with a bit of stamina could try a pub crawl that included the
ever-popular TIMBER HUT, which has a great layout and great music, the CANDY PUB,
and the new PRC (PHUKET RIDERS' CLUB). And that's just in Phuket Town. The
PRC in Saphan Hin, is an intimate pub attracting a lot of the young locals. From
18:00-21:30 the pub offers live folk music and from 22:30-02:00 a band plays soft
rock and heavy metal, and the decibels are high! Lovers of both country music
and rock 'n' roll can catch the Pure Band at Candy Pub, in Phuket Town. Lead singer
Miss Nai is an attraction all in her own right, and the pub offers a choice of
Thai, Chinese and European dishes. Live satellite TV brings you MTV and live sports,
and Candy Pub is open from 6pm till 2am. The Timber Hut, just outside Phuket Town,
offers live rock 'n' roll and blues. The Thai food is okay, if you just want something
to go with your drinks, but don't go for dinner. Try the deep-fried squid. This
place is hugely popular and is generally packed out with a mix of local Thai people,
foreign residents and tourists. It's open from early evening till the wee hours.
You can book a table. The SAFARI PUB, Phuket's biggest dance spot, offers
three live bands every night from 8pm. The kitchen is open till 2am; you can dance
till 3am. Phuket's most famous singer, Khun Boonkurt, ("Kurt"), formerly
of Timber Hut and Eagle Pub fame, performs with the Bangket Band, singing songs
from the '70s and '80s. A midnight show on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays stars
several "dudes" (sort of) from Simon Cabaret. The SAFARI PUB, nestled
in a jungle setting just 10 minutes south of Patong, makes for a fun night out.
Lose YourselfIn some way poorly understood outside the culture,
Thais equate noise with good times. Enjoyment can be directly measured in decibels,
the more the better. One theory has it that the DJs all went deaf long ago; as
they did, the volume crept up to where the entire population is now also going
deaf, and no one realizes how awe-inspiring sound levels have become. So when
you enter a local disco be prepared to lose yourself, and maybe some of your hearing,
in the music. Wear Your EarplugsMARINA DISCO, at the Merlin Hotel
in Phuket Town, is one of the most popular dance spots on the island, these days.
THE MONSTER CAVE, at the Thavorn Hotel, and LASER DISCO, at the Thavorn Grand
Plaza are two other favourites. In Patong, the TITANIC, the BANANA, and the TIN
MINE 2 are the discos of choice. If your Terpsichorean tastes run to less trendy
ways of struttin' your stuff, then THE WAVE, in the Pearl Hotel, is the place
to go for ballroom dancing. Tangos, waltzes, fox-trots and suchlike are as modern
as it gets at The Wave. Drinkers with a Running ProblemThe Hash
House Harriers congregate at the EXPAT HOTEL every Saturday afternoon, and the
drinkers with a running problem, both guys and girls, often like to party at the
Expat late Saturday afternoons. The good times often roll into the evening with
lots of "down-downs". Hark, All Ye HustlersEvery Tuesday
at 8pm, JIMMY'S LIGHTHOUSE, on Ao Chalong, hosts a pool tournament. Participants
ante up 100 baht apiece and stand to win a case of 24 beers. The tournament is
open to all, hustlers and duffers, ladies and gents. This favourite hangout among
the yachting crowd makes a fine spot to stop for a meal or a drink at any time.
Jimmy's has great food, a fine ambiance, and a privileged view of the yacht harbour
and old pier. Other venues for pool tournaments open to all: the RED ROSE, Kata
Centre (Friday) and the ANCHOR BAR, Kata Centre (Wednesdays) 100 baht ante and
24 beer first prize. Wine WeekendsThe BOATHOUSE, on Kata Beach,
is offering residents and visitors alike a perfect weekend for those who love
tasting wine, Thai cooking, and relaxing in the herbal spa near the ocean. The
package includes two nights accommodation, return airport transfer by private
limousine, American breakfast, Thai set dinner on Friday night, Thai cooking course
on Saturday morning for one person with Chef Tummanoon, golf tournament with prizes,
gala dinner with exceptional wine tasting on Saturday night, and one session in
the herbal spa with massage of your choice. Rates are: Twin/double room - 14,900
Baht (US$590), Single - 9,400 Baht (US$370), Suite - 18,100 (US$724). Package
expires 31st October, 1996. Health BreaksThe BOATHOUSE would also
like you to try the ancient healing arts of Asia to rejuvenate your mind and body
in the herbal spa garden. This includes three night accommodation, return airport
transfers by private limousine, daily Boathouse breakfast on the terrace, three
massage sessions, including reflexology along with herbal steam treatments, a
Thai herbal oil gift basket, and one set dinner of healthy Thai cuisine. Rate
are: Twin/double - 12,875 (US$515), Single - 8,900 Baht (US$356), Suite - 17,675
Baht (US$707). Package expires 31st October, 1996. Night SportsRight.
It's not what you think. If you're tired of drinking, dancing and eating, and
the idea of a movie is just too boring, Phuket offers other diversions. If you're
in Patong, for example, and you're in the mood to get really high, you can try
the CATAPULT BUNGEE, just outside the Expat Hotel. You get a nice view of Phuket's
busiest beach at night. Or why not try a NIGHT DIVE? Any number of local dive
shops organize these. The Dive Café, in Kata Centre, sometimes offers a
package -- a set Thai dinner and a night dive off the beach. Some of the gamefishing
boats do NIGHTFISHING FOR SHARKS. PARTY CRUISES aboard the Jolly Roger, a junk-rigged
sailing vessel, are another option. The full moon makes a good an occasion as
any. HERBAL SAUNAS and TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE provide another change of pace
-- either or both make an ideal therapy before or after a night on the town. CabaretsTransvestite
reviews, for whatever reasons, attract large audiences of both Thais and foreigner
visitors. The fantastic costumes are no doubt one factor explaining their popularity.
Others? The stage set at Patong's SIMON CABARET, for example, is one of the most
elaborate in Thailand and the light show is spectacular. A Place for Everything,
and Everything in Its PlaceGo-go bars aren't everyone's cup of tea. They
tend to rank low on the Politically Correct scale of good things, these days.
But lots of people swear by them. Among the best on Phuket are Patong's FIREHOUSE,
EXTASY and ROCK HARD A GO GO. Patong Beach has gained a happy sort of notoriety
for its rock-hard nightlife, and no one would seriously suggest that it should
reform itself at this point. It's enjoying enormous success with visitors, so
it must be doing something right. Other, less "developed" beaches such
as Kata and Karon, however, offer different sorts of ambiance, and many local
business people and residents want to keep it that way. The Kata-Karon Tourism
Management Committee, for example -- comprising representatives of the various
sectors of the community -- would prefer to restrict lurid nightlife to other
areas of the island. Surin Beach Starts toSwing?Surin Beach is
smaller and less well-known than Patong or Kata-Karon, but you'll find the elements
of a thriving night life. DIVER'S RESTAURANT AND BAR, fairly recently moved from
Kamala Bay to south Surin Beach, was taken by the sea, a few months ago. With
the passing of the southwest monsoons season in October, Diver plans to set up
on the beach once more. Diver's hospitality and love of good times is sure to
make the new joint just as popular as the old one was. Bepy, meanwhile, has opened
a TOTO on Surin Beach. The original TOTO, in Bangkok, is famous for its food.
An efficient management system, says Bepy, has been allowing him to spend most
of his time on Phuket, and it made sense to start another operation here. Enjoy
great food, exceptional wines and a beautiful tropical garden. The cocktail lounge
and café up front are really pleasant. According to one local who is already
a regular, "This is where you see people who don't want to be seen."
Figure that one out. Not So Big JoeHe did it! A bet that started
as a joke turned serious, when all sorts of punters wanted in on the proposition
that Big Joe of NED KELLY'S BAR, Soi Bangla, Patong Beach couldn't get his weight
from 350 to less than 300 pounds by 1 January. Big John provided training and
moral support, and had Joe ready for the New Year's Day weigh-in. More than ready
-- the newly svelte Big Joe made it down to 270 pounds. Anyone want to bet what
it'll be next New Year's? Folk MusicTry the PRC PUB from 6.00-9.30pm
for folk music, or the little upstairs bar at JE T'AIME (see listing in our Restaurant
Guide) from 8pm till midnight for both Thai and English songs. Cool JazzHit
the BOATHOUSE INN, Kata Beach, for jazz every Saturday night from 8pm. The excellent
house duo -- Rudolfo Navio on bass guitar and Jack Cruz on piano -- are joined
by Emile Jerome on saxophone and Brian on percussion. The Boathouse makes a great
seaside setting for a musical evening. Drop around for the music and a drink or,
better still, book a table and treat yourself to a superb meal accompanied by
wines from the finest wine cellar in the south of Thailand. Enjoy the house duo
any night of the week. Tea and SconesThe ATRIUM LOUNGE, in the
new Novotel in Phuket Town, has stopped Phuket's first British-style "high
tea". This is a tragedy, seeing that the Novotel's pastry chef is a genius.
Still, the Atrium Lounge is well worth a visit. The ambiance is pleasant and,
from 7pm, the "He and She Duo", a fabulous Filipino musical duo, performs.
The CureAn increasing number and variety of herbal saunas are
making their appearance on the island. CHALONG HERBAL SAUNA and NERNTONG RESORT,
on Kalim Beach, now joins older establishments such as the HIDEAWAY in Patong.
According to the owner of Chalong Herbal Sauna, the original herbal sauna on Phuket
was the temple in Nai Harn. Whether the treatment was originally conceived as
a hangover cure or not, it can be recommended as such. Some of the saunas are
using prai, the same herb that the monks have always used in the Nai Harn temple.
Other exotic treatments include a Thai honey-wrap massage, as administered at
the very upmarket BANYAN TREE SPA. The Le Meridien Hotel offers arometherapy massage
and reflexology. The BOATHOUSE INN, on Kata Beach, has also opened a posh spa,
with custom herbal steam therapies, a choice of massage and lots more - all of
it in unsurpassed surroundings. (All you health fanatics will be pleased to note
the proximity of the Boathouse's excellent restaurant and wine cellar, the island's
best.) More Hangover CuresHere's one way to erase the after-effects
of a Saturday night on the town -- try joining the afternoon gang on Kamala Beach,
where a crowd of mostly expat residents and others gather to play volleyball and
Frisbee on Sunday afternoons. DIVER'S BAR will soon be once again offering cold
beer for those threatened with dehydration or incipient DTs. This popular beach
bar was swept away by a rogue bit of surf, a while back, but Diver says he's going
to start up a new establishment in October of 1996. Cool ItTry
GELATI NATURA, on Patong Beach, for luscious ice cream made on the premises only
from natural products. Some of the flavours on offer, including tamarind, are
original to Gelati Natura. Just a SnackUNCLE NAN'S Italian restaurant,
at the Cape Panwa Hotel, is highly recommended both for the ambiance and for the
quality of the tucker. Try the Salmon à la Davidoff, for example. This
salmon mousse rolled in fine smoked salmon and served with a delicate cream sauce
is designed to inspire even the most jaded palate. Sima's Indian Vegetarian
Food and Gifts. Sima's, at the Karon Plaza corner, closed for the summer
season, is reopening on 1 November 1996. Sima's first opened just last year to
coincide with the start of Phuket's famous Vegetarian
Festival, last October. This is real veggie food, with no eggs or dairy products.
Nevertheless, it's delicious. And it's BYOB, for those who need a bit of beer
or wine to wash down the curries. Sima and her husband Garum are already well
known as the proprietors of Euro Fashion, a quality tailor shop in Kata Centre. |