
Bamboo Rafting & Elephant Trekking
in Khao Lak
by
Sam Wilkinson - Photos by Stephan Audiger
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Its nine oclock on a sunny morning and here comes
the minivan to take us bamboo rafting at Khao Lak, some 100kms
north of Phuket. Weve been looking forward to this trip
and its entertaining stops along the way and its not
long before were crossing the Sarasin Bridge and barreling
along the highway in Phang Nga Province.
Apart from the bamboo rafting today is all about animals.
Hawksbill and Ridley Turtles, elephants, crocodiles, lots
of fish, gibbons and of course, Thailands wonderful
birdlife.
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Turtles
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| Hawksbill turtles
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After a 30-minute drive we pull into a seaside government fishery
centre devoted to the breeding and releasing of turtles. From a
distance it looks like any other fishery; big concrete tanks, lots
of bright-blue water pipes and piles of fish food sacks everywhere.
But up close we discover a whole ocean-full of aquatic life. In
the first tank absolutely huge black giant groupers silently regard
us then swish off after deciding we are not going to feed them.
There are all sorts of fish species here in these tanks: sea bass,
red snappers, clown anemone fish, big nose unicorn fish, small nose
boxfish saddle-backed anemone fish and many more.
A mean-looking Indian threadfin trevally slices the water surface
looking a lot more dangerous than it really is; its the fin
that does it turning a humble-looking fish into a Jaws character.
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| Baby turtles |
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A hawksbill turtle rubs the side of the tank, trying to get a better
glimpse of Stephan, our cameraman; one little guy is missing a flipper
and swims with the stub flapping away.
Theyre wonderful animals to study up close and are genuinely
curious of us. We discover tanks of baby sea turtles and theyre
absolutely adorable.
Lek, our guide, explains that the babies are released at sea when
they are three-to-four months old and that, in normal circumstances
(being hatched on the beach) only about 50 of the 200-to300 eggs
in a batch will survive. This lot will be released on December 5,
in commemoration of the Kings birthday.
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Jumbos and crocs
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| Elephants &
Bamboo |
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Were off in the van again and head up the hill to the Asia
Safari Camp above Khao Lak. Here, theres a mini-zoo and elephant
trekking. If you ever get the chance to ride on a jumbo please dont
turn it down. Youll discover that one of the largest animals
in the world is also one of the most graceful.
Our elephant never loses her foothold and you wouldnt think
she had three people on her back. Sure, she gets distracted by bamboo
shoots (their favourite food) but is remarkably good natured.
Thais deeply respect this animal because time after time the elephant
has proven itself as an able defender of the kingdom. Most elephants
work until about age 65 and then retire and if an elephant is not
worked too hard it can live up to 100 years old. For these reasons
pregnant Thai women believe it to be good luck to walk under an
elephant and absorb the karma as it were.
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| Thai Crocodile |
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Theres the cutest little baby elephant running around the
kraal and up the hill is a den of crocodiles, all as motionless
as statues.
Personally, I wouldnt like to be the one who cleans their
pool and compound out. In the background we hear a poouaa,
poooua call.
These are the camps gibbons, gracefully swinging from pole
to pole. Southern Thai people call gibbons husbands
because in their dialect, the word is pronounced pua.
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Waterfall
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| Ton Pling Waterfall
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Just a short ride away is the Wang Khiang Koo River and the Ton
Pling Waterfall. Gods Jacuzzi says Lek, but no
ones in the mood today for a refreshing dip in cool water.
We just sit there in silence, contemplating the beauty of the scene
and marvelling at the power of the water as it crashes and splashes
down the granite boulders and past us down the hillside.
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Lunch
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| Delicious sweet
nsour fish |
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Anyone hungry? Lek grins. We all realise that yes,
were actually very hungry but hadnt noticed so, just
a short ride away, at a riverside restaurant, we devour the sweet
nsour fish, chicken in soy sauce, soup, deep-fried tempura
squid and vegetables, fresh fruit and soft drinks.
Its the time to get to know the other members of the tour
group and we all share our travelling in Thailand stories.
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Rafting!
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| Bamboo rafting |
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A little later were clambering into bamboo rafts that look
like oversized pan flutes. Theyre quite simply designed: several
large bamboo poles tied together with two cross sections for people
to sit on.
The boatman uses one as a punting pole and off we shoot downstream
Lek was right, its not too dangerous but once in a while the
rafts aft end collides with a boulder or a tree trunk as we
sweep past. The boatman doesnt look that strong but he must
be, considering the manoeuvres he is conducting and the weight of
three adults and the raft.
We go through rough water to smooth to rough again for 20 minutes
as we pass through shady glades, a palm oil plantation, past huge
felled trees, under makeshift bamboo bridges, and past fisherman
baiting lines and trapping eels and fish.
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| Arrival at the the
restaurant |
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The boatman slows the raft and points up above us to a tree branch.
Theres a green snake coiled up and fast asleep. Does it like
to eat farangs? No, the boatman says its harmless and shoves
us off again. Minutes later Lek is helping us out of our raft and
were sipping on a cool drink and drying off at the restaurant
where we had lunch.
Actually the only part of our anatomy that got wet was the seat
of our pants. Were back in Phuket at five oclock and
at the hotel at five-thirty.
All in all, as theres practically no one who doesnt
love animals this is a tour for pretty much everyone. Its
not too top-heavy, and keeps moving in an engaging way. The tempo
is relaxed and easy and the activities are genuinely interesting,
neither is it too physically demanding. Its well thought-out
and well executed.
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Things to take with you
Swimming costume - Towel - Sun lotion - Hat - Waterproof camera
bag - Change of shorts
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Interested in this tour?
Bamboo
Rafting & Elephant Trekking
Day Trip to Khao Lak - 2,500 Baht |
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| Visit
a turtle-breeding farm and see how many tropical fish you can recognize.
Glide down unspoilt rivers on a bamboo raft, where there's a surprise
around every bend - a colourful tropical bird, a water monitor, some
exotic hanging fruit or bathing water buffaloes. Then take a thrilling
ride along mountain paths on the back of an elephant. A safe and exciting
trip that the whole family will enjoy. Green, cool and educational.
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Photo Gallery of the tour
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