Bamboo Rafting & Elephant Trekking in Khao Lak

Turtles in Thai Muang

After a 30-minute drive we pull into a seaside government fishery centre devoted to the breeding and releasing of turtles. From a distance it looks like any other fishery; big concrete tanks, lots of bright-blue water pipes and piles of fish food sacks everywhere.

But up close we discover a whole ocean-full of aquatic life. In the first tank absolutely huge black giant groupers silently regard us then swish off after deciding we are not going to feed them. There are all sorts of fish species here in these tanks: sea bass, red snappers, clown anemone fish, big nose unicorn fish, small nose boxfish saddle-backed anemone fish and many more.

A mean-looking Indian threadfin trevally slices the water surface looking a lot more dangerous than it really is; it’s the fin that does it – turning a humble-looking fish into a Jaws character.

A hawksbill turtle rubs the side of the tank, trying to get a better glimpse of Stephan, our cameraman; one little guy is missing a flipper and swims with the stub flapping away.

They’re wonderful animals to study up close and are genuinely curious of us. We discover tanks of baby sea turtles and they’re absolutely adorable.

Lek, our guide, explains that the babies are released at sea when they are three-to-four months old and that, in normal circumstances (being hatched on the beach) only about 50 of the 200-to300 eggs in a batch will survive. This lot will be released on December 5, in commemoration of the King’s birthday.

Jumbos and Crocs

We’re off in the van again and head up the hill to the Asia Safari Camp above Khao Lak. Here, there’s a mini-zoo and elephant trekking. If you ever get the chance to ride on a jumbo please don’t turn it down. You’ll discover that one of the largest animals in the world is also one of the most graceful.

Our elephant never loses her foothold and you wouldn’t think she had three people on her back. Sure, she gets distracted by bamboo shoots (their favourite food) but is remarkably good natured.

Thais deeply respect this animal because time after time the elephant has proven itself as an able defender of the kingdom. Most elephants work until about age 65 and then retire and if an elephant is not worked too hard it can live up to 100 years old. For these reasons pregnant Thai women believe it to be good luck to walk under an elephant and ‘absorb the karma’ as it were.

There’s the cutest little baby elephant running around the kraal and up the hill is a den of crocodiles, all as motionless as statues.

Personally, I wouldn’t like to be the one who cleans their pool and compound out. In the background we hear a “poouaa, poooua” call.

These are the camp’s gibbons, gracefully swinging from pole to pole. Southern Thai people call gibbons ‘husbands’ because in their dialect, the word is pronounced ‘pua’.

Waterfall

Just a short ride away is the Wang Khiang Koo River and the Ton Pling Waterfall. “God’s Jacuzzi” says Lek, but no one’s in the mood today for a refreshing dip in cool water.

We just sit there in silence, contemplating the beauty of the scene and marvelling at the power of the water as it crashes and splashes down the granite boulders and past us down the hillside. 

Lunch

“Anyone hungry?” Lek grins. We all realise that yes, we’re actually very hungry but hadn’t noticed so, just a short ride away, at a riverside restaurant, we devour the sweet n’sour fish, chicken in soy sauce, soup, deep-fried tempura squid and vegetables, fresh fruit and soft drinks.

It’s the time to get to know the other members of the tour group and we all share our travelling in Thailand stories.  

Rafting!

A little later we’re clambering into bamboo rafts that look like oversized pan flutes. They’re quite simply designed: several large bamboo poles tied together with two cross sections for people to sit on.

The boatman uses one as a punting pole and off we shoot downstream Lek was right, it’s not too dangerous but once in a while the raft’s aft end collides with a boulder or a tree trunk as we sweep past. The boatman doesn’t look that strong but he must be, considering the manoeuvres he is conducting and the weight of three adults and the raft.

We go through rough water to smooth to rough again for 20 minutes as we pass through shady glades, a palm oil plantation, past huge felled trees, under makeshift bamboo bridges, and past fisherman baiting lines and trapping eels and fish.

The boatman slows the raft and points up above us to a tree branch. There’s a green snake coiled up and fast asleep. Does it like to eat farangs? No, the boatman says it’s harmless and shoves us off again. Minutes later Lek is helping us out of our raft and we’re sipping on a cool drink and drying off at the restaurant where we had lunch.

Actually the only part of our anatomy that got wet was the seat of our pants. We’re back in Phuket at five o’clock and at the hotel at five-thirty.

All in all, as there’s practically no one who doesn’t love animals this is a tour for pretty much everyone. It’s not too top-heavy, and keeps moving in an engaging way. The tempo is relaxed and easy and the activities are genuinely interesting, neither is it too physically demanding. It’s well thought-out and well executed.

Things to Take with You

- Swimming costume
- Towel
- Sun lotion
- Hat
- Waterproof camera bag
- Change of shorts