Mom Tri's Kitchen
Villa Royale - Kata Noi Beach

By Sam Wilkinson - Photos by Stephan Audiger

Every once in a while the perfect dining experience crosses your path. All you have to do is go with the flow and let it happen. Location and décor are definitely important but these two key factors without good food just don't work.

That's why Mom Tri's Kitchen Royale at Villa Royale in Kata Noi Beach is such a clever act: it balances the three factors perfectly and invites the diner simply to appreciate and enjoy some fabulous cuisine in a divine setting.

Where is it?

The bar

Villa Royale straddles the highland separating Kata Yai and Kata Noi beaches on Phuket's west coast. Kata is some eight kilometres south of Patong.

Drive to the south of the resort town and follow the road over the hill to Kata Noi. Villa Royale is halfway on the right and has ample parking space in its beautiful gardens.

View Mom Tri's Kitchen location map.

Décor

Sunset at Mom Tri's Kitchen

Mom Tri's Kitchen Royale is sumptuous in its décor with terracotta floor tiling and views out over Kata Noi and the Andaman Sea to die for (don't miss sunset here). There is a successful marriage between natural and man-made décor in its al fresco section and a plain old-fashioned sense of delicate taste throughout.

The owner, Mom Luang Trihosyuth Devakul, is Thailand's most renowned architect and his skill has been put to optimum use here in creating a fantastically beautiful place to enjoy gourmet food and wine; indeed it used to be his house!

The original restaurant and kitchen are now a reception area and guests descend into the dining section where there are eclectic alcoves, antiques and beautiful artwork.

Atmosphere

"Intimate and elegant dining personified"

Immediately as you enter the property a sense of elegance pervades. Carp play in stone pools and the beautifully landscaped garden complements the lush and tastefully illuminated interior.

Live music from a baby grand piano drifts through the night air as well-presented waiters guide you to your table.

If a businessman could capture the early evening magical feel at Mom Tri's Kitchen Royale and sell it he'd be a very, very rich man indeed as this is intimate and elegant dining personified.

Wine

Mom Tri's Kitchen's wine cellar

With a 380-label list and access to nearby sister restaurant The Boathouse's excellent wine cellars you're looking at top-notch wine at Mom Tri's.

The restaurant's cellar is a long-time winner of Wine Spectator Magazine's 'Award of Excellence' so it comes as no surprise that the Argentine Pascual Toso Merlot we take with our meal is wonderful.

Some of the waiters here are as knowledgeable as sommeliers so you are in experienced hands with a first-rate wine list.

Food

Pepper-crushed pan seared tuna steak

Impeccable. Presentation and execution is at premium and the restaurant's open kitchen gives the distinct impression that food is prepared with freshness paramount in the chef's mind. A pepper-crushed pan seared tuna steak is delectable and carrot soup (ordered minus the cream) bursting with freshness.

We made a point of trying the lobster ravioli as The Boathouse serves up a fine version and it was a good idea as this dish is outstanding for its integration of flavours. A beef steak follows and every mouthful is a reminder why we'd chosen this restaurant.

Fusion? Yes, but with wonderful attention to the individual characteristics of the ingredients. To tell the truth we were so full we skipped dessert but did notice that there are at least four recommendable chocolate combinations on hand. In short, Mom Tri's Kitchen Royale succeeds with ease where lesser restaurants fall at the first hurdle. All this in a wonderful setting, too.