Big enough to tango in, the standard rooms (branded 'Deluxe Sala' plus a noun, it's the floor number in disguise) are awash in dark wood and light hues of famous Thai silk; all expected amenities report for duty.

Buildings have three floors; accommodations on the top two have large balconies while ground floor rooms compensate with even larger terraces and lower prices. The one-bedroom suites, of which there are a dozen, are twice as big and twice as nice. Obsessive house cleaners do an outstanding job of keeping all rooms glittering.

In the fully stocked health club, the television screens on the treadmills can't do the hard work for you, but they make the pain more entertaining. Two tennis courts, a lake trail, and mountain bike rentals allow calories to be shed outdoors.

The spa eases the aches of the over-zealous or indulgent in treatment rooms that deserve an award for opulent design. The resort's three pools are responsible for soaking up untold hours of holiday time; one has a special kids area, one has a special adults area (up to your bellybutton in water, drink in hand), and one has a reputation for being the most peaceful.

Dine at a different restaurant every night for six days and sample cuisine for Italy, Japan, Thailand, and America. For quick and casual, the deli does the creator of the sandwich proud and serves a mean high tea too. It's open at all hours; midnight munchies and pre-dawn cravings beware. Art and science collide with food and drink at the trendy new beach bar, Out of the Blue - Drink. Two words, one title: Liquid Chef.

In the end, the resort feels like a luxury village - high-class yet homely - where thoughtful activities, always friendly staff, and the knowing nod-and-smile from fellow guests lend a sense of community. On the north end of the island, you're a world away from the rest of Phuket - literally and figuratively. But that's exactly why many make this a permanent part of their yearly calendar.

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