Approaching Hong Island

I wonder if I'm the only person confused as to where the hours went. We're ending a day that seems like it just began. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

In the morning, I boarded one of Sea Cave Canoe's big boats - the name of it wasn't obvious, but ISO 9001:2000 certification was - from the little pier of Laem Sai on Phuket's northeast corner.

The boat chugged peacefully through Phang Nga Bay, where oddly shaped islands towered over the water. Some looked unbalanced; on the verge of collapsing into the sea. But some hid secrets.

A hong revealed

The hongs ("rooms" in Thai) are caves that lost their tops - literally. Towering rock walls, sky blue ceilings, and watery carpeting, these dramatic rooms are the private sanctuary of all manner of plant and animal life. Dark tunnels, eroded from the stone, are the only way in and out.

During the course of the day, I was face to face with inquisitive monkeys, saw bats hanging a comfortable distance overhead, and grasped gnarled mangrove roots that twisted into knee-deep mud. I heard silence interrupted only by oars dipping in water. My guide asked me quietly, almost apologetically, to look here sir, look there, as he pointed out shapes in flowing rock formations: a dog's head, a duck, Buddha.

Hong resident greets guests

In a word, the scenery was astounding; easily enough to make the trip worthwhile. But the staff of Sea Cave Canoe was an unexpected bonus. Always quick with a joke, a smile, a cold drink, or a helping hand, they made the day truly memorable.

Guides were assigned to guests, personal introductions were made, and that was your paddle guru for the day. A glass of water or a bottle of cola was barely finished before a staff member swooped in to discard the trash, true to the "Keep Bay Clean" slogan scrawled on their shirts.

Instructions and informative tidbits were explained slowly, clearly, and even spelled out when there might be confusion. "The first island we are going to is Panak: P-A-N-A-K. In Thai, panak means back of a chair. So the island is comfortable, relaxing, something like that," said our head guide Took (T-O-O-K, like tuk-tuk).

On we passed, from one sight to the next, until inexplicably, here we are winding down on the beach. Stellar sights, a first-class crew, and no little detail forgotten, I'll leave wanting only one thing: to come back again.

How to Get There

Phang Nga Bay Kayaking Sea Cave Canoe day trip - 2,900 Baht

The exciting trip described in this page offers you one full day journey into the scenic world of the mysterious “ hong” (or rooms in Thai), by canoeing along the amazing landscape of Phang Nga Bay. The trip includes: Round trip transfer from hotel • Round trip transfer by boat & canoe • Excellent buffet lunch on board • Experienced English speaking guide • Swim and relax on Lawa Beach. A once in a lifetime experience. Read more...

Photos of the Trip