To party…

Sunflower Bar, Loh Dalam Beach.

Maximizing the enjoyment quotient is a matter of education. Where you stay and what you're into play a big part in enjoying the Phi Phi experience. The area around the pier at Tonsai Bay is like a micro-sized port town. There may not be any sailors on R&R, but at night the place becomes the most happening nightlife locale in all of Krabi Province.

The young and the beautiful show off their newly acquired tans and gulp drinks by the bucketful (literally) in the bars, the walkways in front of the bars, and the beach on the other side of the walkways. Speakers strain to stay intact while blaring beach-vibe-appropriate music at conversation killing levels. The smell of kerosene fills the air as the current must-have bar attraction - the ubiquitous fire show - dazzles guests. The nights are wild and crazy and might keep you up all night - and maybe that's exactly what you're looking for.

Or not to party

Zeavola Resort, northern tip of Phi Phi Don.

Head to any other part of the island for loads of peace and quiet. Heft War and Peace to a poolside lounger, enjoy a massage, and spend hours wondering why a pool is required when you're just steps from such a stunning sea. The resorts here are tailor made for relaxation. Nightlife outside of Tonsai is an endangered species, if not extinct, and certainly won't threaten nights of blissful sleep. And if it gets too quiet, boat taxis are plentiful; an appreciated fact on an island where roads don't exist and most vehicles have peddles. Grab a longtail, get your fill of frivolous fun, and make a hasty retreat back to serenity - i.e., any place that isn't on the Tonsai isthmus.

Get me there!

A speedboat strikes a pose on Poda Island

While it doesn't have air service yet, getting to Phi Phi is simple. Ferries make the roundtrip between Krabi and Phuket twice a day. An innumerable number of speedboats flit across the water from just about everywhere during the high season. But if you're short on holiday time and wish to spend as little time as possible in transit, flying will soon be an option. By seaplane the journey will take only minutes.

Life at sea is the life for me

Green with envy? Maya Bay.

Once on the island, there's plenty of reasons not to stay put - most of which involve getting wet. The Andaman Sea is home to a vast supply of coral reefs and abundant marine life. Fish species that call the sea gardens home number over 100; the types of coral is double that. As such, being underwater with your eyes wide open is a flagship pastime.

Diving companies are plentiful, experienced, and welcome all ability levels. For those who want to get a taste of the underwater life without committing to full on dives, book a snorkelling trip. Or check out one of the many seafood restaurants.

Tiny islands with amazing beaches in the middle of nowhere; it's the stuff of dreams. To actually experience it can make a person giddy with excitement. The islands near Phi Phi turn those office daydreams into a vividly beautiful reality. And yes, it's as cool as imagined.

Compulsory name-dropping

Leonardo was here.

As a conformist - a "me too!" kind of guy - I'm not capable of writing about Phi Phi without mentioning 'The Beach,' which used Maya Bay on Phi Phi Ley as, well, the beach. Lots of people go there, and if you're like me, you will too. But lets make a pact to call it by its real name - Maya Bay. Otherwise, the island risks suffering the fate of James Bond Island, which can't remember its real name after the filming of 'The Man with the Golden Gun.' Koh Leonardo? DiCaprio Bay? No disrespect to the accomplished actor, but no thank you.

Good times on terra firma

Tonsai Bay rolls out the white carpet.

Railay Beach - on the Krabi mainland - bolted its climbing routes first and took the title as Thailand's top rock climbing destination, but Phi Phi has the same karst topology that makes real life spider-people so happy. Shops around Tonsai will teach newcomers how to scale rock walls or rent equipment to the skilled.

Tonsai by day has the two things that make civilization wonderful: food and shopping. The variety of both means you can find something in each category to suit your taste and budget. Meander down the crooked lanes into the least touristy part of the village for the best Thai food at the lowest prices. In the more built up areas (read: nicer), the culinary world is your oyster. Everything is available here (yes, including oysters). Bakeries, pizzerias, seafood restaurants, barbeques, and too many stalls selling Thai pancakes - choices are plentiful.

Dinner on display. East Tonsai.

For the shopaholic, there's a few reasons to rejoice. Small shops feature everything you forgot to pack, as well as paintings and sculptures, authentic souvenirs, cheesy shirts, and racks and racks of CDs and DVDs at suspiciously low prices.

The verdict

The 2004 tsunami may have knocked Phi Phi flat on its backside, but it has learned to walk again. Rehabilitation isn't quite complete - rebuilding is ongoing - but in most places you'd never suspect there'd been a problem. Without a doubt, Phi Phi is back.

Where to Stay in Phi Phi Island

Photos of Phi Phi Island