Phi Phi Island

Guiding tours where the tide is major factor is a bit of an art form. Lucky for me, my guide has been at it for twenty years. His name was swept away in the wind, as is bound to happen when making introductions in a speeding boat.

A little detective work and I discovered he calls himself Holger. A transplant from Germany, he's called Phuket home for 20 years and knows plenty about where we're going and when to be there. Balancing water levels with crowd avoidance - and adding a ridiculous amount of informational titbits - he kept things moving along at a good clip.

Superstars shunned

Ao Ling (Monkey Bay)

A hair mussing hour after plopping down in the boat, we made our first stop. The motto for the day, coming from Holger, was "we timed it right" (meaning, of course, that he timed it right). Fins, masks, and lifejackets were distributed during the commute; no wait required. The boat was tied to a buoy just above the coral reef and passengers emptied out the back to begin the exploration of the subsurface wonderland. We were at Ao Ling (Monkey Bay).

Though monkeys appeared on the beach - busying themselves with monkey activities - they were the least interesting sight. And monkeys usually steal the show. Fish dressed in neon darted in and out of the alien-looking reef just below the surface. It was so close that swimming wasn't even required - just float and stare.

You have a friend in the sea

Phi Phi Island

Was there an accident? Found treasure? Maybe a sea circus? The jumble of boats in the middle of the sea, near nothing, warranted such silly ideas. We had arrived at Hin Klang (Middle Rock). The coral garden is midway between the north tip of Phi Phi Don and Bamboo Island. Being in the middle of the sea, the water is deeper than at Monkey Bay, but once again, Holger timed it perfect.

And once again, the fancy fish darted around my body like I was one of them. Acceptance, finally. The tide hadn't yet rendered the sights unreachable, and having the fragile scenery a bit further away was safer for nature - fins plus clumsy human equals danger (though the coral is sharp and does fight back).

Surf and turf

Bamboo Island

The third stop on our itinerary (which, if it isn't obvious now, can change from one day to the next depending on conditions) was Koh Mai Pai. Bamboo Island. I forgot to check for bamboo, but I'm sure it's there. A number of passengers retreated to the shade of the trees that lined the beach. I don't know how they could resist the super soft sand and ultra clear water. Snorkelling was possible, but it was nice to be free of the goofy accessories and swim as nature intended (not that natural - shorts required).

In a snap, we're off again. Three chances to frolic before lunch has given everyone the munchies. On the north tip of Phi Phi Don we're served buffet lunch on solid ground and given some time to relax (beer and wine available for purchase).

A convertible and a hard top

Viking Cave in Phi Phi Ley

On the east side of Phi Phi Ley (Phi Phi Don's uninhabited twin) is Viking Cave, named for cave paintings that resemble - but most likely aren't - Viking ships. Holger offered this rationale: "This is too far away for Vikings. Besides, it's too hot here." Fair enough. We didn't actually enter the cave, but cut the engines and drift by while taking pictures of its exterior. We were on a schedule, people. There were more places to go.

Bright green water with white sand not too far below await in Pi-leh, which is a hong ("room" in Thai) - or a massive limestone-walled rooms with sky above and water below. Normally hongs are almost inaccessible, and rarely by a boat of this size. But this hong is unique in that it lost it's front door. The likes of speedboats and dive boats can now pass with ease when the tide is high. And what do you know - Holger timed it right. This guy is good.

Leonardo has left the building

Maya Bay

The last stop before heading back to Phuket was Maya Bay - famed for it's cameo in The Beach (though, with all the hype, you'd swear it was the star). Hollywood's power is impressive; it can fill a remote beach half a world away. Some would argue that the place was too touristy, but the sand was the softest I've ever buried my feet in and the views were remarkable.

Everyone returned home tired but smiling - and some (me) learned the hard way that Holger knew more than tide tables after dismissing his recommendation to make liberal use of sunscreen. That guy knows everything.

How to get there

Phi Phi by Speedboat Day trip from Phuket - 2,900 Baht

Get to Phi Phi before the crowd! Get the wind in your hair and enjoy the thrill of travelling by speedboat. Go island hopping, stop at Ao Ling (Monkey Bay) on Koh Phi Phi Don, then snorkel at the famous Hin Klang and relax or swim in Koh Mai Pai (Bamboo island) before arriving at Koh Phi Phi Don for a great lunch. The trip includes: Round trip transfer from hotel • Round trip by speedboat with licensed tour leader • Insurance throughout the trip • Excellent buffet lunch on Phi Phi Island. Read more...

Photos of the trip