Phi Phi by Speedboat

A hair mussing hour after plopping down in the boat, we made our first stop. The motto for the day, coming from Holger, was "we timed it right" (meaning, of course, that he timed it right). Fins, masks, and lifejackets were distributed during the commute; no wait required. The boat was tied to a buoy just above the coral reef and passengers emptied out the back to begin the exploration of the subsurface wonderland. We were at Ao Ling (Monkey Bay).

Though monkeys appeared on the beach - busying themselves with monkey activities - they were the least interesting sight. And monkeys usually steal the show. Fish dressed in neon darted in and out of the alien-looking reef just below the surface. It 

Was there an accident? Found treasure? Maybe a sea circus? The jumble of boats in the middle of the sea, near nothing, warranted such silly ideas. We had arrived at Hin Klang (Middle Rock). The coral garden is midway between the north tip of Phi Phi Don and Bamboo Island. Being in the middle of the sea, the water is deeper than at Monkey Bay, but once again, Holger timed it perfect.

And once again, the fancy fish darted around my body like I was one of them. Acceptance, finally. The tide hadn't yet rendered the sights unreachable, and having the fragile scenery a bit further away was safer for nature - fins plus clumsy human equals danger (though the coral is sharp and does fight back).

The third stop on our itinerary (which, if it isn't obvious now, can change from one day to the next depending on conditions) was Koh Mai Pai. Bamboo Island. I forgot to check for bamboo, but I'm sure it's there. A number of passengers retreated to the shade of the trees that lined the beach. I don't know how they could resist the super soft sand and ultra clear water. Snorkelling was possible, but it was nice to be free of the goofy accessories and swim as nature intended (not that natural - shorts required).

In a snap, we're off again. Three chances to frolic before lunch has given everyone the munchies. On the north tip of Phi Phi Don we're served buffet lunch on solid ground and given some time to relax (beer and wine available for purchase).

On the east side of Phi Phi Ley (Phi Phi Don's uninhabited twin) is Viking Cave, named for cave paintings that resemble - but most likely aren't - Viking ships. Holger offered this rationale: "This is too far away for Vikings. Besides, it's too hot here." Fair enough. We didn't actually enter the cave, but cut the engines and drift by while taking pictures of its exterior. We were on a schedule, people. There were more places to go.

Bright green water with white sand not too far below await in Pi-leh, which is a hong ("room" in Thai) - or a massive limestone-walled rooms with sky above and water below. Normally hongs are almost inaccessible, and rarely by a boat of this size. But this hong is unique in that it lost it's front door. The likes of speedboats and dive boats can now pass with ease when the tide is high. And what do you know - Holger timed it right. This guy is good.

The last stop before heading back to Phuket was Maya Bay - famed for it's cameo in The Beach (though, with all the hype, you'd swear it was the star). Hollywood's power is impressive; it can fill a remote beach half a world away. Some would argue that the place was too touristy, but the sand was the softest I've ever buried my feet in and the views were remarkable.

Everyone returned home tired but smiling - and some (me) learned the hard way that Holger knew more than tide tables after dismissing his recommendation to make liberal use of sunscreen. That guy knows everything.