Heading through the gates at Trisara in between Layan and Banana beach on Phuket’s impressively natural northwestern coast, one gets a distinct Bond-like feeling of impregnating a formidable fortress. Only this is no evil arch villain’s lair, this is five-star luxury at its heady best, all 40 gorgeous green acres of it. Minutes later, an electric golf caddy drops us off at a lower reception and we descend a rather regal staircase into the central court of the resort bordering the beach, home to its restaurants and swimming pool.
‘Seafood’ is the latest culinary creation of Trisara – the only five-star resort on the island with a Thai chef. Chef Kla is an extremely well-travelled man, having been sent on culinary missions to Sydney, New York, Singapore and Spain – working alongside and learning from one- and two-star Michelin chefs.
The restaurant itself mirrors the opposite side of the court only it sports elegant nautical touches such as ship’s rope wound around columns and touches of blue, white and turquoise as well as louvered shutters.
Outside, light touches such as trelliswork enhance the subtlety of the place. This restaurant doesn’t need to speak in a loud voice; instead it whispers its seduction.
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We choose a table on the wooden-decked terrace although we could just as well have sat ‘les pieds dans le sable’ on the beach as the French say, or inside the air-conditioned interior with its Café Del Mar music. It’s not a beautiful day but still the magic of this spot is overpowering and the only music we hear (or need) is the crashing of waves on the shore and the odd fishing smack passing by.
After a dish of mixed international oysters (the Phuket ones were the most muscular) we sample a spanking fresh tuna tartar with pomelo, citrus, ginger and dried seaweed and an almost perfect sole meunière with green asparagus and potatoes. You couldn’t get a better example of the level of Seafood’s cuisine than this fish dish.
We also enjoy light, battered fish and chips along with a sea bass dish featuring squid, sugar snap peas, watercress and red quinoa. All this, along with a heavenly dessert selection and 2010 Whispering Angel rosé from Provence, is enough to make one believe that terrestrial paradise is achievable – it’s just a matter of knowing where to look.
A hint: ‘Trisara’ is Sanskrit for ‘third garden in heaven’.
There’s a balance to be struck here: Seafood is certainly not inaccessible to non-hotel guests yet it remains a place for a very special day out, for that out-of-the-ordinary meal we all should treat ourselves to once in a while.
Opening Hours: 12:30 –15:00, 19:00 – 22:30 Closed Sundays
Location: Trisara Resort, northwestern Phuket
Tel: +66 (0)76 310 100
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