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 Get
to know South Western of Thailand's landscape
If
there is a single feature of south Thailand's landscape
which commands one attention right from the start is the
dramatic limestone crags which rise from the waters edge
and valley floors to sheer vertical heights in excess of
900 meters. These butte-like crags, called "karsts",
were formed 260 million years ago when a shallow sea running
the entire length of south Asia, slowly built up deep deposits
of shells and corals which were later buried under sediments
washing in from land. Compressed deep in the earth, these
calcium carbonate remains formed limestone which was thrust
up above the surface when the India sub continent, collided
with mainland Asia about 30 million years ago. The collision
of these two titanic plates rotated the whole of south Thailand
and the Malay Peninsula clockwise and uplifted the 5,000-km
ancient coral reef line. From Gualin, China to Sarawak,
Borneo the limestone was thrust up above the surface like
discs slipping out of places along a terribly maligned human
spine. Surat Thani, Phangnga, Krabi and Trang provinces
are the areas in south Thailand where karst intrusions are
most pronounced.
Fluctuating sea levels during the ice ages allowed for extensive
wave erosion of this soft sedimentary rock. For many millenniums,
monsoon rains have also helped dissolve the karsts. Decomposing
leaves from karst vegetation create slightly acid water
which readily dissolves
the calcium carbonate of the limestone as the water percolates
down through the tiniest cracks and crevices in the rock.
Rivers too have cut courses through the karsts resulting
in a labyrinth of cave chambers and passageways.
 Sometimes
the roof of a huge cave chamber collapses and the ensuing
sunlight allows colonizing plants to flourish in a hidden
"garden of Eden: - a "hong". These hongs
(Thai for "rooms") are one of the most fascinating
features of karst topography. If the former cave floor was
at, or below sea level then the hong may become a lagoon
at high tide. This is the case at the Pranang "princess
pool: or the lovely lagoon of koh Hong where the tide races
in and out through the old cave entrance. If the old cave
site is well above sea level, however, then a climax forest
may ultimately grow here as in the case of Ao luk's Than
Bok Koranee of Wat Tan Sua near Krabi town.
Karst
support an intriguing flora and fauna, uniquely adapted
to demanding habitat conditions. Vegetation on karsts has
evolved the ability to withstand long period of crevices
where moisture and some semblance of nutrients from decomposing
leaves are available. As these plants grow and their roots
and trunks swell they often sheer off part of the rock face.
Plants thus carve away at the rock in much the same way
that water expanding into ice splits rock in colder climates.
These vegetation in turn supports a variety of wild animal
life in this very area. With luck one might be able to behold
any of these wild life during a normal tour around at Phang
Nha Bay National Park.
At both low tide and high tide, it is not possible to enter
the hongs. Illustration of how tides affect sea cave canoe
trips into the 'hongs', tunnels, and lagoons.
It is only when the tide is neither high nor low can we
have access to this hidden world of limestone
Emerging
from the cave into an inner lagoon; this unspoiled tranquil
"room" is open to the sky and as we gently paddle
around observing the breath-taking scenery walls of rock
covered with vegetation, bird singing and insects whining.
Lawa
island is located further down from Panak island. Tropical
sandy beach will allow you to enjoy swimming, sunbathing,
offshore canoeing or relaxing comfortably under the palm
and coconut tree.
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